Our Favorite Backcountry Trails in Yosemite

by Shannon Hickey
Photo by Keith Walklet

Yosemite National Park has more than 750 miles of trail to explore and here are some of our favorite backcountry trails in Yosemite! From short day hikes to multi-week adventures, whether you’re looking to climb a peak, swim in an alpine lake, meander through the forest, tick off your bucket list, or immerse yourself in solitude, Yosemite has a backcountry trail and a wilderness adventure for you!

This journey begins at home, months before your hike. You first start on your computer by applying for a Wilderness permit. Wilderness permits ensure the protection of backcountry trails by managing the amount of traffic each trail receives. To learn more about the wilderness permit process check out the Conservancy wilderness hub.

1. Backcountry trails for the bucket list adventure

   It’s hard to think of Yosemite without thinking of the iconic Half Dome. Every day of the summer, hundreds of intrepid hikers challenge themselves to their physical limits by hiking from Yosemite Valley to the top of Half Dome and back again all in a single day. But did you know you can also hike to the top of Half Dome as part of an overnight wilderness adventure?

   1. Starting from Happy Isles, hikers will begin up the Mist trail, gaining almost 3,000 feet of elevation in less than 3 miles! Be sure to stop for a photo and a snack at the top of Vernal Falls. If hiking in the spring or early summer, don’t forget to pack your rain jacket (it’s called the Mist trail for a reason!).
   2. At the top of Nevada Falls take a deep breath and enjoy the view – you’ve done the hard work for today. After a well-earned break, continue along the trail for two more fairly flat miles towards Little Yosemite Valley, where you will camp for the night. The next morning set out before sunrise to hike the final three and a half miles to the summit!
   3. The first part of the hike starts with a gentle ascent through the woods until you reach the base of Sub Dome. From here, it is a steep and exposed hike up to the base of the cables. The infamous cables! Two metal cables allow hikers to ascend the last 400 feet to the summit of what was quoted to be “probably the only one of the prominent points about the Yosemite which never has been, and never will be, trodden by human foot”.
   4. As sunrise illuminates Yosemite Valley below you, look out to the Clark Range to your south, the Cathedral Range to your east, and the expansive High Sierra all around you. Once you have soaked up as much view as you can, it’s time to head back down to Little Yosemite Valley. Most hikers will continue back down to Happy Isles to end their wilderness adventure here.
   5. Have a few more days to spend in the wilderness? Why not spend another night or two night at Little Yosemite Valley and summit Clouds Rest, another peak farther up canyon from Half Dome? At just shy of 10,000 feet, you will be looking down at the Half Dome summit from the top of Clouds Rest!

2. Chasing waterfalls on backcountry trails

   Did you know Yosemite is home to some of the tallest waterfalls in North America? Yosemite Falls is a series of three separate falls that span 2,425 feet, making it the tallest waterfall in California! Hikers wanting to challenge their fitness can spend from one to three nights hiking a loop of the eastern north rim of Yosemite Valley.

   1. Starting at the Yosemite Falls trailhead, hikers will ascend the trail to the top of the falls. From here, hikers can soak up the view of Yosemite Valley and Half Dome before escaping into the cool of the forest. More breathtaking views of Yosemite Valley await as you pop out of the forest to the summit of North Dome.
   2. After a short side trip to Indian Arch, a natural rock formation, hikers descend back into the forest until reaching Snow Creek. The Snow Creek trail is the shortest (and steepest!) backcountry trail out of Yosemite Valley. In the warmer months, it is best to start down this trail early as it is south facing with very limited shade. A grueling final descent is rewarded with epic views of the face of Half Dome just across Tenaya Canyon.
   3. Once you reach the valley floor, it is a short walk along the Mirror Lake loop to shuttle stop #17.

3. Family friendly backcountry trails

   Got some Junior Rangers with you who love to adventure? Dewey Point is a great first backpacking trip for anyone, but especially for those wanting to experience the wilderness with their families.

   1. Your adventure starts at the McGurk Meadow trailhead along the Glacier Point Road. Glacier Point Road is open seasonally in the summer months, generally opening for the season in late-May and closing to overnight parking on October 15. The backcountry trail starts in the forest and continues south with relatively little elevation change for almost two miles before reaching the intersection of the Pohono Trail, a trail that follows the south rim of Yosemite Valley all the way from Tunnel View to Glacier Point.
   2. Depending on the time of year, seasonal water sources along the Pohono Trail may be scarce. It’s always a good idea to talk to a Wilderness Ranger or Yosemite Conservancy Wilderness Reservations Assistant before your hike to find out the status of water sources along your trail. If needed, top off your water in Bridalveil Creek just east of the McGurk/Pohono trail junction, and then continue west another two or so miles to your destination – Dewey Point!

4. Backcountry trails for solitude seekers

   Yosemite’s southern region is well-known for its epic views and few crowds. For those seeking an adventure “off the beaten path,” look no further than the Chilnualna Falls trailhead.

   1. Located off of Highway 41, through the town of Wawona, the Chilnualna Falls trailhead is tucked away and unassuming. Most will drive right by the turn off on their way to Yosemite Valley or Glacier Point. Those that take the time to stop will be rewarded for their efforts.
   2. The backcountry trail begins with a steep 4-mile hike to the top of Chilnualna Falls. Once the trail crosses Chilnualna Creek, backpackers are welcomed to dispersed camp on the granite slab (at least 100 feet from the creek). If short on time, this could be the end of your southern Yosemite adventure.
   3. For those seeking a longer adventure, further into this untouched wilderness, continuing east along Chilnualna Creek will take you on an 18-mile loop through conifer forest, via several alpine lakes, and over mountain passes with stunning views to the Clark Range and Yosemite’s high country.

5. A little luxury in the backcountry

   Love the wilderness but hate packets of oatmeal and granola bars? Deep in Yosemite’s high country are the High Sierra Camps.

   1. The first High Sierra Camp opened in 1916 to create an opportunity for visitors to experience wilderness without sacrificing basic comforts to encourage more visitors into Yosemite’s wilderness and better evoke a sense of conservation. Over 100 years later, there are now five High Sierra Camps, excluding the Tuolumne Meadows lodge, scattered throughout Yosemite’s high country, each a 6- to 10-mile hike from the next.
   2. Visitors can choose to visit one, some, or all of the camps, with many choosing a 49-mile loop hike starting in Tuolumne Meadows to visit each camp over five days. With varying levels of luxury, from a typical backpacker experience of staying at the undeveloped backpackers campgrounds found at each camp to a fully guided trip with all accommodation and meals provided, there really is something for everybody. (Please note that in 2024, only three camps will open: Sunrise, May Lake, and Glen Aulin).

Whether you’re looking for a one-night backpacking trip to climb Half Dome or a multi-day cross-country adventure through Yosemite’s most rugged and wild places, you will need a wilderness permit. Wilderness permits are required for all overnight hikes in Yosemite year-round. For more information on obtaining a permit and planning your trip, please visit yosemite.org/wilderness or reach out to our Wilderness team via our contact form. Happy trails!