Park's tourism industry hopes troubles at an end

Yosemite rallies back; Expected crowds a relief after years of fires, floods and murders

by Matthew Yi
San Francisco Examiner - May 28, 2000
 

YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK - Ask Mariposa motel manager Jerry Rankin the last time he has seen a trouble-free spring at the crown jewel of the National Park System, and he has to stop and think about it.

"We haven't had a normal year since... gee, I don't know when," said Rankin, who runs the Best Western Yosemite Way Station. "Knock on wood, we might just see a herd of locusts coming in. I think that's the only disaster that's left."

With the Memorial Day weekend kicking off the summer tourist season at Yosemite, park officials and nearby business owners are nervously keeping their fingers crossed, hoping this year will go smoothly.

It's not exactly paranoia, considering a spate of tourist-deterring events before the summer tourist kickoff in the past few years.

The streak began at the end of 1995 when the federal government shut down the park for several weeks carrying over into early 1996 because of a budget impasse.

The park was reopened by Memorial Day, but the news that it had closed had already reached far and wide.

Motel operators like Rankin, as well as park officials still get calls from domestic and international would-be visitors wondering if the park is open.

The devastating floods in the following winter certainly didn't help.

The Merced River, which cuts through the heart of the famed Yosemite Valley, overflowed in 1997 and caused such an incredible flood that the valley became a virtual lake with three small islands: Yosemite Lodge, the Ahwahnee Hotel and Curry Village. Winter visitors were stranded for a few days until waters receded and people were led out in a convoy.

With extensive damage to the park's facilities, Yosemite was closed until mid-March. The residual road problems remain as crews hope to finish repairs this summer.

There were no budget problems or floods in 1998, but the post-El Niño weather brought frigid winds and cold temperatures that left the region with lots of snow at the end of spring that year.

The popular Tioga Pass, which stretches across the park's north side, was closed until July 1, the latest opening on record. The pass often opens by late May.

Then last year, just when Mother Nature seemed to be cooperating, three Yosemite sightseers were reported missing in February. They were last seen alive at Cedar

Lodge, a popular motel near one of Yosemite's western gates.

The bizarre case led authorities to the bodies of the three women - Carole Sund, her daughter Juli and their family friend from Argentina, Silvina Pelosso - who were brutally slain.

The FBI jumped into the investigation along with local authorities, arresting a spate of alleged methamphetamine users in the Modesto area.

However, the case took another deadly turn last July with the murder of Yosemite naturalist Joie Armstrong, whose beheaded body was found near her home in the park.

The slaying led to the arrest of former Cedar Lodge handyman Cary Stayner, who has since confessed to killing Armstrong as well as the three sightseers.

Stayner has been indicted in federal court in Fresno for Armstrong's murder and his trial is set for October. Mariposa County's district attorney's office has filed state charges against him in the deaths of the Sunds and Pelosso, but a trial date is nowhere in sight.

While some of the big tragedies of the last few years could be unprecedented, at the same time it's always amazing to me how safe it is to visit (the park)," said Yosemite's new superintendent, David Mihalic.

The former superintendent of Glacier National Park in Montana took over the Yosemite post last October after then-Superintendent Stanley Albright left to become special advisor to the director of the National Park Service.

Mihalic said the current conditions at Yosemite are ideal.

"A lot of trails are open. We think the water has peaked because of the amount of snow up high," he said. "I think a lot of people who are itching to get back into the backcountry will be able to do that earlier than normal. I'm certainly looking forward to that."

The Park Service, in conjunction with local governments, also launched a controversial bus service May 18, aimed at reducing the number of automobiles in Yosemite Valley.

The Yosemite Area Regional Transportation System, or YARTS, has daily service along Highway 140 and inside the park to Wawona. Weekend service along Highway 120 began last week and weekend service along Highway 120 east was set to start Saturday.

"The air conditioning (in the bus) was a bit too strong this morning, but we like it very much," said Richard Murrell of London. "We liked the fact that they explain different sites to you along the way."

Like Murrell, many other visi

tors got a head start getting to Yosemite this past week.

Maria Hernandez, 35, of Lake Tahoe decided to take a day-trip to Yosemite with her dogs, Willie and Precious.

"I think it's just beautiful. I'm just sad I didn't bring my camera with me," she said while standing near a stream that flowed from the bottom of Bridalveil Fall.

Mark Johnston, 31, and three of his friends trekked from Brisbane, Australia, to see the granite monolith, El Capitan.

"This place is just mind-blowing," he said as one of his friends took a picture of him with Bridalveil Falls in the far background. "This is beautiful, rugged country."

There were some visitors who came to paint the majestic falls and the impressive wall-to-wall granite spanning Yosemite Valley.

"It is so inspiring to be out here," said Lori Lyn Greenstone, 40, of Fallbrook, San Diego County, as she put the finishing touches on her watercolor painting of Yosemite Falls. "We try to come up here every year and spend a week. I let the kids play and I just paint."

Greenstone also likes to take advantage of the free art class sponsored by the Yosemite Concession Services Corp., a private company that operates most of the restaurants, stores and lodging in the park.

On the other side of the valley, a group of landscape artists spent afternoons last week painting various icons at Yosemite like the famous Half Dome.

"It's so amazing here that it's hard to paint," said Charles Waldman, 50, of Sonora. "The landmarks are so overwhelming that it's hard to pick out anything."

Waldman was among 21 artists who spent the past week in Yosemite, creating artworks for the Haggin Museum in Stockton.

Most of the visitors were too busy gawking at the magnificent sights, and had little time to think about the recent tragedies such as last year's slayings or the 100-year flood that overwhelmed the valley just a few years ago.

In the gateway communities like Mariposa and Groveland, business owners say they're anticipating one of the best tourist seasons in recent memory.

'Wonderful opportunity'

"We think (we have) a wonderful opportunity this summer. We just hope and pray that we don't have another fire or anything like that," said Peggy Mosley, owner of the Groveland Hotel.

Mosley was referring to the August 1990 blaze, which has been dubbed the worst fire in the area's history.

More than 100,000 acres burned and 72 buildings were destroyed. Although the fire did not touch Yosemite Valley, about 10,000 park visitors were evacuated in caravans and rangers closed the park for 11 days.

Mosley, who bought the 151-year-old hotel a decade ago, said business owners in the gateway communities have proven they can survive the hard times and now look forward to thriving in the good times.

"We're all excited about what's going on . . . barring any disasters. That's always the preface that we use around here," she said. "Otherwise, we should have a great season."

The weekend just may be one of the better ones in a long while with most of the rooms in and around the park booked solid weeks ago.

"This spring is just gorgeous. The flowers are blooming and it's just beautiful. We haven't had a spring like this in a long time," Mosley said.