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Inside
Yosemite: A Web Log for 2004
by Beth Pratt, Y.A.'s Vice President/CFO Join Beth in her Yosemite adventures! She'll update this journal weekly with tales of her backcountry excursions, Yosemite news and events, and Yosemite Association happenings. Send her questions, comments, and suggestions at bpratt@yosemite.org
Sunday, September 26, 2004 The lure of Tuolumne proved irresistible this weekend (as it does on most weekends!). I took a drive to the high country on Sunday and decided to trek cross-country to the Dana Plateau and then to Dana Lake, which sits in the basin under Mt. Dana and its glaciers. I have climbed Mt. Dana probably a dozen times, but Id never visited the Dana Plateau area to the east. The hike transported me into a prehistoric wonderland, as the plateau has escaped the effects of glaciation. According to King Huber in his The Geologic Story of Yosemite National Park, these upland surfaces have significance far beyond being unglaciated, because they are very ancient. My feet walked on land with remnants of terrain 25 million years old. Dana Lake glistened under the not a cloud in the perfect sky. To borrow one of John Muirs favorite words, my view of the lake from the crest was absolutely glorious. The water reflected the clear sky, and I stood hypnotized by the deep cerulean blue color. The landscape before me, although underscoring my insignificance in the greater scheme of things with its unavoidable reminder of the far-reaches of time, produced what I can only term a state of rapture. I remained at my vantage point for some time, almost near tears. My skimpy breakfast and lunch may have produced my emotional state. Ive heard that is why John Muir wrote such flowery prosehe was almost always half-starved since he carried very little food. My remedy? The Mobil Station. Too bad Mr. Muir didnt have the option of dining on fish tacos after one of his jaunts. Monday, September 20, 2004
Not to be outdone, Mother Nature contributed her own excitement to the event, hurrying in a weather front that dropped the temperature over 20 degrees in twenty-four hours! (Although the rain held off for the meeting, we finally got the much-needed precipitation on Sunday with snow dusting the Mariposa Grove). At 4:00 pm, when the aftershocks from a 5.5 magnitude earthquake were felt in the park, we were too immersed in the raffle drawing to feel the earth move. Indeed, our event proved to be so much fun that we didnt sense any of the seventy quakes that the Sierra experienced over the weekend. On Sunday, despite the dark clouds looming overheard, I ventured into the Mariposa Grove for a hike up to Wawona Point. My clothing was geared more toward a mild fall day, so when the snow began falling, my gloveless hands quickly turned red. I didnt mind, however, since walking among the majestic trees with a light snow for company made for a picturesque scene. Sunday, September 12 I had several events to attend this weekend and a bundle of work to accomplish. My solution was to ignore all of my commitments and instead spend the weekend in Tuolumne. After all, I rationalized, the pass doesnt stay open all year. I arrived in the afternoon on Saturday and decided to take the boat across Saddlebag Lake and hike the loop around the lakes. What I love about the Saddlebag Lake area is that with little effort and expense (a mere $6 gets you ferried across the lake) you can be in the midst of the High Sierra with alpine lakes and craggy peaks for surroundings. Ive explored the area extensively, having climbed White Mountain, Mt. Conness, and North Peak, but I had never hiked the official loop around the lakes. The trek around the lakes was an easy hike, so I didnt feel I had really earned my dinner. However, my perceived lack of effort did not deter me from ordering a plate of fish tacos. After dinner, I returned to my favorite lodging, the El Mono Motel and read my Weatherwise magazine while I sipped on jasmine green tea from the motels café. On Sunday, I joined Ranger Dick Ewart on the last day of his "Ice, Wind & Fire" outdoor adventure course. His hike focused on the natural forces that shaped the landscape in the park, not the music of a '70s rock band. The day I joined the group (a very fun bunch of poeple!) we traveled to Little Devils Postpile, a volcanic plug along the Tuolumne River, to learn about the fire. As always on Dicks wonderful hike, I added much to my Yosemite knowledge. Did you know that the last period of major volcanic activity in the Sierra was 9 million years ago? Or that some grasses grow in donut rings in the high country because of water and mineral dispersal?
One bonus involved the clouds. It was a superb cloud day! The wind had picked up last night at Mono Lake, and had followed me to Tuolumne in the morning. The winds aloft were extremely unstable, as told by the clouds language. The wind produced an array of unique stratus formations across the sky; lenticular clouds stretched across the horizon, looking like UFOs had landed on the Sierras. We ended the day on Erratic Dome, gazing at the 360 degree view as Dick named the peaks on the horizon. We huddled close as to hear his voice over the 30 mph winds. Sunday,
July 18
After a few days of seeing the webcam display a photograph of Half Dome obscured by dusky smoke, I decided to check out the fire for myself. I headed up to Ostrander Lake, the open trail closest to the fire’s proximity. Smoke clouded my drive through Yosemite Valley at 8:00 am, but I soon escaped the haze near the Wawona Tunnel. As I rose out of the valley, all evidence of the fire had vanished—except for the views in my rearview mirror.
I had a delightful hike. The clear air (yes!—not even a whiff of smoke even though I could see the bold plumes from the fire), the gorgeous array of wildflowers, and the dearth of other hikers made for a perfect outing.
My eastern viewpoint at Horizon Ridge revealed a landscape shrouded in gray. I stood in day looking into a land of evening. Smoke from the fire had covered everything in a haze to the east of Horizon Ridge and the line between clear and haze was very distinct. Red and Grey Peaks, and Mt. Clark, were obscured but Merced Peak remained visible. Mount Starr King peeked out of the gloom, and I could just make out the contours of Half Dome.
Here’s an unlikely scenario: Alone at Ostrander Lake on a Sunday in July. After I snapped a photograph for two hikers, they departed down the trail and left me with only the company of the lake. I dove in the waters, which felt abnormally warm, and then sat on the rocks and ate lunch. As I dined, a helicopter made several trips to the lake to scoop up water. The helicopter flew so close that I felt rain from the fire bomb fall on me! Thursday, July 15 Our El
Portal office is surrounded by a haze of smoke this morning, and on
my commute to work the round disc of the sun cut through the gray blanket
of smoke in an orange blaze. Fire in Yosemite. During a series of lightning
storms the last week of June, a fire began near the Mono Meadow trailhead
on Glacier Point Road. The park service is taking aggressive action
to stop its growth, but the fire has forced the closure of Glacier Point
Road, and many trails in the surrounding area (Four Mile, Panorama).
The usual view of Half Dome from our webcam has been obstructed by smoke
the last two mornings (see below). We also had a rockslide this week
that closed Happy Isles for a brief period. All we need now is a flood
to make our natural disaster week complete!
Sunday, July 4 Snow in July? On our drive up to Tuolumne, after we had passed Tenaya Lake, it took me a moment to realize that snow covered the sides of the road. A visitor from Texas stood in her shorts, snapping a photo of her car parked in inches of snowy slush. I regretted that we had not picked yesterday to hike in the high countrywhat a wonderful experience it would have been to wander in Tuolumne Meadows in July as snowflakes danced around me. The snow had been very localizeda few hundred feet down the road it had disappeared. The meadows were entirely clear of snow, and the almost clear blue sky and warm sun made it difficult to believe that the area had experienced a storm yesterday that had dropped rain, hail, and snow. High cirrus clouds decorated a small portion of the sky; their presence can sometimes indicate that a storm system has passed. Today were headed to Young Lakes and we begin our hike at the Lembert Dome parking area. Despite it being a holiday weekend, we encounter only half a dozen other hikers on the trail. The path to Young Lakes first wanders (uphill!) through forests, then opens into a meadow where we cross Delaney Creek. To the east, we have a splendid view of Mt. Dana and Gibbs. Further along, we enter a basin under the watch of Ragged Peak, and look southwest at the Cathedral Range. We had visions of relaxing and taking a dip in one of the Young Lakes, but the thousands of mosquitoes that descended upon us when we arrived at the shore of the lower lake caused us to retreat back up the trail away from the water. We ate our lunch, sans mosquitoes, on a nearby ridge, while enjoying views of the lake and Mt. Conness. On our return trip we met park ranger Fred Koegler who was out on patrol on his trusted steed Bart. Fred had worked with our President, Steve Medley, when Steve was a ranger in the park. We warned him about the mosquitoes, but he told us one of the benefits of mounted patrol was that the horse deflected most of the mosquitoes away from him. Bart did not appear too pleased at this strategy! Friday, June 18 In all my travels in Yosemites high country, I never thought I would encounter shrimp. However, a group of biologists working on the Sierra Nevada Inventory and Monitoring Network recently found fairy shrimp (Branchinecta lindahli) at 8,600 feet, an elevation record for the species. Dont start packing the cocktail sauce in your backpacks! Since they inhabit an area in a National Park, these shrimp are protected. The report noted that fairy shrimp eggs or cysts can survive up to 100 years under extreme conditions such as freezing or desiccation (drying up). Cysts can also travel on the wind, which might explain how these shrimp arrived at 8,600 feet. Wednesday, June 16 Another splendid day in Tuolumne! I hiked up to Mono Pass and lunched at Spillway Lake, munching on a brownie and peanuts while feasting my eyes on Kuna Crest, and listening to the sound of the snow-melt rushing down the cliffs. Corn lilies had begun springing up in the meadows, along with some yellow flowers that I could not identify (our Illustrated Flora of Yosemite is just too heavy to bring on a hike!). I met only four other people on the trail, and three of them had Yosemite Association connections! Judy Marks, our new employee at the Tuolumne Meadows Visitor Center, was heading up to the pass on her day off. One of our returning volunteers, Heather Schneider, and a new volunteer, Julie Rice, also had spent the day hiking in the area. We certainly have a great group of volunteers and employees who enjoy exploring the park. On my return hike, the cumulus clouds had evolved into cumulus congestus, and I felt the first drops of rain hit me about halfway to the trailhead. After my hike, I drove to Tuolumne Meadows and watched as the storm formed over Mammoth Peak. An hour passed, and Mother Nature still had not produced any lightning, so I called it a day and headed home. However, I did stop at numerous vantage points along Tioga Road to watch the progress of the storm (thinking this safer than trying to watch the clouds in my rearview mirror). The clouds had climbed high into the troposphere and a definite anvil, the precursor to a thunderstorm, had formed. I almost drove back up to the meadows, wanting to see the lightning dance over the peaks, but I reasoned that I would have plenty of opportunities to see thunderstorms this summer. Monday, June 14 Laurel Rematore (YAs membership director), and I are members of the Association of Partners for Public Lands Training Corps. We provide training for land agency partners across the country in a variety of areas, including strategic planning, financial management, membership, and fundraising. As members of the corps, we delight in helping non-profits become successful in supporting public lands. This past weekend, we conducted a training workshop (along with our colleague Claudia Schechter, former CFO and VP for operations for the National Park Foundation) for two new organizations: Piedras Blancas Lighthouse Foundation and The Friends of Carrizo Plain. The energy and dedication exhibited by the participants made our job very easy, and we know these two groups will go on to do great work. Part of the fun in training is seeing the public lands the groups will be supporting. The training was held at the Piedras Blancas Light Station, near San Simeon. We received a wonderful tour of the lighthouse, observed sea lions and elephant seals, and met a volunteer who spends much of her time trying to clear the site of the ubiquitous non-native ice plant. My favorite fun-fact of the weekend derived from the rocks that bear the Piedras Blancas name. Their whiteness comes from thousands of years of accumulation of bird guano! Additionally, Penny Harris, a member of the Piedras Blancas board and docent at Hearst Castle, arranged a tour of the castle for us. Hearsts grand and eccentric vision made for quite an experience. The site never once failed to impress, from the Greek Nymph pool, to the 16th century Spanish cathedral ceilings, to the 2,500 year-old Egyptian statue. Saturday, June 5 At our quarterly board meeting, we were treated to the company of a group of very special guests. We welcomed a delegation from Bhutan which was touring national parks in the United States in order to learn about educational and interpretive programs. The group included their host Caroline Getty; Mingma Sherpa, one of the first rangers in Mount Everest National Park; Norbert Riedy, a senior policy analyst for the Wilderness Society; Dr. Sangay, the head of the Bhutanese National Park Service; and, Lyonpo Sangay Ngedrup (the title Lyonpo designates the highest honor in Bhutan), the Bhutanese Minister of Agriculture. Unfamiliar with Bhutan? So was I. The small country (about the size of Switzerland) is nestled in the Himalayas between Tibet, West Bengal, and Sikkam. It has been designated as one of the worlds top ten biological hot-spots for diversity. Snow leopards, tigers, water buffalo, and elephants are all found within its borders. Although they came to Yosemite to learn from us, I think we were the ones who were inspired by their dedication and values. Bhutan has preserved much of its land in four national parks and numerous sanctuaries, and has focused on establishing wilderness corridors to link the areas. It boasts the largest proportion of forest coverage of all the Asian nations, and its government is committed to ensuring that 60% of its land remains forested. Bhutan is also the only country that measures its health not just in terms of economic production (GNP), but also in the context of GNHGross National Happiness. What a wonderful concept! Tuesday, June 2 We just received word in the office that our friend Jane Gyer died yesterday. In her lifetime, Jane had produced an impressive legacy of Yosemite art and had collaborated with the Yosemite Association on many projects, such as Discovering Sierra Trees and A Trip to the Yosemite. I met Jane for the first time at last years spring forum and enjoyed hearing her discuss her passion for Yosemite and her art. I regret that I did not get to enjoy more of her company. Sunday, May 30 On a walk along the Merced River today, we were treated to an unusual atmospheric phenomenaa cloud iridescence. As I gazed up at the sky, a high cirrus unicus (mares tails) cloud stretched its tendrils over our heads. A rainbow of color decorated the bottom of the cloud, and while we watched, it slowly spread upward, like paper absorbing ink. The colors evolved as the cloud formed; it was like watching the birth of a rainbow. Shad, my partner, definitely regretted not bringing his camera! An iridescence is caused by a difraction of light on small water droplets, and is related to the corona, another optical formation. The term iridescence comes from the word irisation, relating to the Greek deity Iris, who represented the rainbow. Not wanting to miss any portion of the show, I waited until the cloud had disappeared behind the hills (much to the disappointment of my dogs who could not understand why I stood still during our walk), delighted that the sky had painted so delightful a picture for me. Saturday, May 22 On my first visit to Tuolumne this year I feel like Im greeting old friends as I drive up Tioga Road. I round the turn after Olmsted Point, and the landscape of Tuolumne embraces me, comforting in its largesse of sublimity. Tenaya Peak stands proud above its lake while Polly and Pywiack Domes act as the gateposts to Tuolumne, two granite monuments on either side of Tioga Road. As I enter Tuolumne Meadows, I become reacquainted with more old friends. The trio of Mt. Dana, Mt. Gibbs, and Mammoth Peak wait patiently for me to arrive, knowing its only a matter of time before I visit. The meadow is remarkably free of snow, but the proliferation of white peaks surrounding it demonstrate that winter has not yet fully departed from the region. I decide to keep driving and begin my visit with a jaunt to Gaylor Lakes. Once I enter Dana Meadows, winter further asserts its reluctance to leave. Unlike Tuolumne, Dana Meadows is almost entirely covered with snow. When I get out of the car, a chilly wind greets me. I don a windbreaker and head up the mostly snow-covered trail to Gaylor Ridge. Mt. Dana keeps me company as I ascend. The Whitney Survey named the peak in 1863 for James Dwight Dana, a professor of natural history and geology at Yale. One of my favorite hikes in the park, the climb is one I usually make in the spring when enough snow has melted to make it passable, yet enough snow remains to allow for a fun (and considerably faster) descent of sliding down the snowfields. At the top of the ridge, I peer into a frozen world. Snow still covers the basin and the lakes sleep under the ice. To my right is Gaylor Peak whose red metamorphic rock has shaken off winter. To my left a cornice curls over Gaylor Ridge, a wave frozen in motion. Friday, May 14 Tioga and Glacier Point Roads opened today! Monday, May 10 Our association held a strategic planning session this past weekend at Asilomar Conference Center. Our board of directors and staff, along with representatives from the National Park Service and Delaware North Parks and Resort Company attended this important meeting. We reviewed our five-year strategic plan developed in 1999, and outlined a series of actions to help us continue to serve our educational mission to the park. The facilitators of the session asked us to begin with a review of our accomplishments over the last five years, which our President Steve Medley outlined for us. We truly have done some great work for the park! I am proud to be a member of our association. After a day of sitting in a conference room (albeit one on the seashore), we were treated to an interpretive walk at Point Lobos. Kimi Kodani Hill, one of our board members, brought her father Eugene Kodani, who had spent his childhood on Point Lobos. His memories of the area provided a wonderful complement to the walk; he pointed out the sites of the homesteads, and offered anecdotes about growing up near the abalone canneries. On the last morning of our stay, I walked out to the beach at 7:00 am to observe a negative tide, when the water falls below the average water line. I felt like I had access to a hidden world, as areas that were usually hidden under water now lay exposed. Starfish and jellyfish lingered in the tide pools, while anxious birds dashed among the new rocks looking for treats. Sunday, April 25 The First Annual Yosemite Birding Festival was a success! This past weekend over one hundred dedicated birders roamed Yosemite in search of life list sightings and were guided by an ornithologists dream team of Keith Hansen, Ted Beedy, David Lukas, David DeSante, and many others. Keith Hansen obtained remarkable video footage of two great horned owls nesting in Yosemite Valley, while Ted Beedy led field trips to Foresta and Crane Flat, and spotted the Vaux's swift and pileated woodpecker. The colorful western tanager and northern oriole also made an appearance over the weekend, along with over eighty other species. The famed Stellers jay remained elusive (just kidding!) Mark your calendars for next years festival: June 19-21, 2005. Monday, March 29 This weekend we welcomed over 400 of our members to Yosemite Valley for our annual Spring Forum. This gathering provides Yosemite lovers with an opportunity to immerse themselves in all things Yosemite. Among the offerings: Superintendent Mike Tollefson updated members on park happenings, Ranger Erik Westerlund led a walk The Natural History of Spring, the NPS Mounted Patrol treated attendees to an equine visit, and climber Ron Kauk previewed his new documentary with Sterling Johnson, Return to Balance: A Climbers Journey. I was delighted to work with a group of children in the afternoon during my Become a Junior Ranger program. The kids picked up a bag of trash, drew a bear awareness poster, learned about animal habitats, and built (on paper) a Miwok acorn storage container or chuk-ka. When they had completed their activities, park ranger Mary Kline had them recite the Junior Ranger Oath and presented them with their Junior Ranger patches, which they wore proudly. When I was a child, my parents took us to various National Parks and I remember friendly rangers helping me become a Junior Ranger; Im happy to be able to contribute to such an important program. If you havent attended this splendid event, mark your calendars for next years forum on March 19, 2005. We hope to see you there! Wednesday, March 24 Spring has arrived! At my home in Midpines, my garden is filled with the yellow faces of daffodils, and the crimson-purplish hues of the redbud decorate my commute in the Merced River Canyon. Being a native of New England, where springtime weather (i.e., when one can comfortably don shorts) doesnt begin until June, I love living in a climate that permits hiking in shorts and a t-shirt in March. My personal rite of spring is the hike to upper Yosemite Falls. Today, I made my annual trek to the top, accompanied by warm sunshine and a clear blue sky. Every season this hike offers a new perspective. One year a black bear greeted me on the trail, another year I hiked most of the way on snow. This year with the exception of seasonal creeks crossing the way, the trail was completely dry. However, at the top of the ridge, snow still survived in haphazard patches. For those who have not made the trip to the top of Yosemite Falls, I highly recommend the experience. Leaning on the railing and watching the pure white water tumble over the cliff, while listening to the constant roar of the rushing water lulls me into a meditative state. Nature truly is magnificent in her artistic expressions! The view from the top also afforded me a chance to check out the snow in the high country. The Clark Range stood proudly in the landscape, decorated with snow, but not completely covered. Half Dome has a thin layer of frosting on its head. The Four Mile Trail to Glacier Point is still closed, and with good reason as I could see the many parts of the trail still immersed in blankets of snow. Unlike the Falls Trail, the Four Mile Trail is located on a north facing ridge and doesnt receive the same treatment from the sun. I think this disparate treatment is highly unfair as often the Four Mile Trail isnt accessible until late May or June and by that time the road is already open and Glacier Point becomes reachable by car. I find that after Ive hiked four miles and achieved over 3,000 feet of elevation gain, seeing a car at the end of my journey dampens my experience. Wednesday, March 17th From St. Louis We won! Im pleased to announce that our Association received first prizes in the APPL Partnership Awards for our Outdoor Adventure and Cooperative Work Week Programs. Two other YA projects were awarded honorable mention: the publication A Trip To Yosemite, and its 80th Anniversary Commemorative Project. Our staff journeyed to St. Louis for the annual convention hosted by the Association of Partners for Public Lands, a consortium of non-profits that support public land agencies in the United States. The annual convention provided valuable training and networking opportunities, as well as recognition through the awards program. Held at a different location every year, the conference also gives participants an opportunity to see the diverse resources our public lands offer. This year we explored the theme of westward expansion so magnificently captured in the Arch. The Arch is truly something to behold, and I was prepared to not be impressed. At a mere 630 feet, its reach pales in comparison to the granite cliffs of Yosemite. However, one cannot be immune to the simple beauty of the structure and its perfect symbolism of the westward exploration. As I lay on the grass under the monument and gazed directly upward, the arc of the curve reached into the sky. I thought of Lewis and Clark, and their grand vision as they stepped into the unknown wilderness of the west. Monday,
March 1st Butch Farabee, former assistant superintendent at Glacier and expert on National Park search and rescue operations, gave an enlivened presentation on the drug plane crash of 1977, the incident Nevada uses as the focus of High Country. Commonly referred to as the Gold Rush of 1977, some enterprising individuals braved the snowy conditions and cold weather to retrieve bales of marijuana, reported to be worth $400 a pound, that were submerged in Lower Merced Pass Lake after a drug plane crash. Tuesday,
February 24th Wednesday,
February 11th During a cross-country hike last summer, I attempted a descent down a cliff that went way beyond my comfort level. After climbing White Mountain, I had walked southwest along the Sierra Crest, hoping to find a place to descend to the east near Finger Lake. If I couldnt locate a suitable route, I knew I could hike down on the western side, near Skelton Lakes, although it would make my hike back to my car considerably longer. At the end of the ridge, I peered down the cliff and saw an accessible route down. About halfway down, however, I came to a point where the decent required some class four climbing. Although a seasoned climber probably wouldnt have blinked, I was paralyzed with fear. Given my fear of heights, no one was more surprised than me when I accepted a generous offer by legendary climber Ron Kauk to give rock climbing a try. Ive been working with Ron on developing programs for our association and as a result hell be giving a talk at our upcoming Spring Forum on March 27th and leading a class for our Outdoor Adventures on April 17th. When I confessed to my timidness when faced with exposure, Ron said he could help. How could a turn down a lesson from a world-class climber? Last week, Ron gave me my first lesson on an outdoor climbing wall. Ron is a gentle soul and he approaches rock-climbing instruction like one would teach yoga. Instead of focusing on the conquest and competition, he encouraged me to simply experience the flow of my movements as I climbed, albeit slowly, up the wall. I wasnt scaling a granite cliff, but I actually liked the way this ballet of moves felt. After a few times on the wall, my confidence level soared. Ill be interested to see if my fear returns when we progress to an actually cliff. Stay tuned! Ill keep you posted on my progress! Tuesday, February 3 This morning, my drive up the river canyon to the associations office in El Portal resembled an excursion in the high country. A winter storm left the hills frosted in snow, a rare event at 1,800 feet elevation. I enjoy my daily commute winding along the river and in between the hills, observing the character of the region as it changes, sometimes subtly, sometime significantly, with the weather. Today the hills were in a preening, boastful mood, proud of their new white coat. Yesterday the snow began in the afternoon, following a burst of wind that came up as suddenly as an ocean squall. Our sunshade gazebo that covered our picnic tables blew down, and we eyed the bending trees surrounding our office with alarm. After the wind calmed, the snow began to fall, large feather-like flakes that made it appear as if the gods were having a pillow fight above and we were witnessing the carnage. Monday, January 12 The Cascade Dam has been dismantled and a group of onlookers witnessed the river flowing free for the first time since 1916. For two months construction crews have been working to demolish the dam, using rubber rafts and sandbags to divert the river until the project was finished. When I drove by the site, I was always amazed at their progress. Construction or in this case deconstruction, is made very difficult when a river flows in the middle of your project! The dam
provided electricity for Yosemite Valley until the mid-1980s. The original
construction costs were $200,000 as compared with the demolition price
tag of almost $3 million. Next time you visit Yosemite, be sure to stop
by the site (at the intersection of Highways 120 and 140) and witness
the new dam-less landscape.
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